I’ve had my eye on Four Sisters National Park (Siguniangshan, 四姑娘山) since well before coming to Chengdu. The name comes from the four tall mountains in the park, the tallest of which is the Littlest Sister at just over 20,000ft.
We gambled last week and didn’t buy our bus tickets in advance (the bus is the only way to get to Rilong (also called Si gu niang shan zhen), and they were all gone by the time we got to the station. We found out this week what the issue was: because of road work, buses had to be past a certain road by 7am, so all the busses were pushed up to 5:30am.
So for this weekend, Holly and I picked up three tickets two days in advance (the earliest possible). We showed up at the bus station at 5am, because who knows how these things work?, but doors didn’t even open until 5:25 so it was sorta pointless. A Taiwanese woman with excellent English said hi to us. She was on our bus and translated for us the whole way. The bus station with buses to which stop at Four Sisters start at Chadianzi (茶店子) and we had to get the bus to 小金 (Xiaojin) which was past Rilong. Our new friend was able to communicate this to the driver, which helped a lot. She also explained what was happening when we pulled over on the side of the road for two hours at one point to wait for a tunnel to open up.
I’ve driven in my fair share of mountains, but this was a new experience. The “foothill” mountains were super steep, covered in deep emerald trees, and clouds drifted around like all those dreamy pictures you see of China.
I’ve never been on such a sharply winding road, not in Colorado or the Appalachians or Cambodia or New Zealand or the Alps or anything. So well done China. Rilong is at 10,500ft, and I was feeling the altitude. Chengdu is around 1000ft.
I don’t know if we went on an off weekend (September 21-22) or if Rilong is usually subdued, but everything was still. We met a few other tourists, but for the most part the street stayed totally empty. One lady worked for hours on a loom. Others sewed as they chatted quietly with neighboring shopowners. Everyone left their doors open to the street. It was 35ºF, so I definitely don’t understand the open doors thing. Guess it gets a lot colder later in the year, maybe everyone’s used to it.
We hadn’t reserved ahead, but we wandered until we found a random hotel. 120¥ per night for our own room with a private bathroom, tv, wifi, and heated mattresses. That’s $5 per person per night. PRICEY. lol jk
We decided to hike Haizi Valley (海子), one of three valleys in the park. We’d heard this is the most nature based. It was the easiest to get to since we could walk there from town. We paid ¥30 each for student-discounted tickets. Total, we climbed over 2000 stairs within the first few miles. The trail was in great condition at first and new rest stops are in the construction process all along the trail, but the shaded ares later on were super muddy.
We hiked to Big Lake (I think that’s literally it’s name), which was seven miles in. I think the trail loops around after that, so for an extra two or three miles, you could come a lot of the way back with different views, but we were totally happy with our seven. At the top of the stairs, we got a really nice view of the Littlest Sister, but didn’t see it again until the lake. We walked along a mountainside with good views of two of the other sisters though.
We didn’t see many people. Mainly large groups of Chinese tourists riding horseback in fancy white sneakers. So once they passed us, we had the mountain to ourself again. I think we saw three of these groups. Surprisingly quiet for being so close to a 9 million person metropolitan area.
Our hotel owner helped us get the bus home. Basically you’ve got to call ahead to Xiaojin to figure out when the bus will pass through, and let the driver know how many people will be joining. We paid for our return tickets through WeChat. Idk what the other payment options are.
Haha this is a dry post. Honestly, just felt like I needed words to put between the beautiful pictures.
xoxo,
ceci